17/06/2026
🇯🇵 KŌYASAN – A PILGRIMAGE THROUGH TIME 🙏🌲
Even if you’re not a practising Buddhist, arriving in Kōyasan feels like a pilgrimage.
Leaving behind the bustle of Osaka, we travelled by train through emerald countryside, crossed rivers, climbed mountain valleys and finally ascended by cable car to a high plateau encircled by eight mountain peaks. In just 90 minutes, it felt as though we had travelled not only through distance, but through centuries.
Founded in 816 by Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi), Kōyasan remains one of Japan’s most important spiritual centres and the birthplace of Shingon Buddhism.
As luck would have it, we arrived during the Aoba Matsuri – the Festival of Young Leaves – celebrating the birth of Kōbō Daishi. Although we narrowly missed the colourful procession through the streets, we were fortunate enough to witness the High Priest of Kōyasan addressing the gathering, accompanied by traditional music, dancing and celebrations.
Our home for the night was Rengejo-in, a traditional temple lodging (shukubo). After settling into our tatami room and taking a moment to absorb the peace of our surroundings, we joined the monks and fellow guests for 45 minutes of meditation before enjoying a beautifully prepared seven-course Shojin Ryori dinner – traditional Buddhist temple cuisine.
As darkness fell, we made our way to Okunoin.
Walking beneath towering cedar trees, some over 900 years old, we followed our monk guide through Japan’s largest cemetery. Stone lanterns illuminated the path as memorials faded into the darkness around us. The atmosphere was both beautiful and deeply moving.
At Kōbō Daishi’s mausoleum, our guide began a low, rhythmic chant that echoed through the night. We offered incense and bowed our heads beneath a crescent moon that emerged from the clouds above.
For a few moments, surrounded by silence, lantern light and centuries of devotion, time seemed to stand still.
One of those experiences that words can never quite capture.
Denise & Susan 🙏✨🌲