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CosmEthically Active

Modern CosmEthics is an association of cosmetology professionals that builds and promotes the culture of natural, ethical and cosmetically active products.

18/08/2026

Taking care of your skin is not about chasing perfection.

It’s about understanding what your skin needs, giving it the right care, and making choices that support its health, through every season. ☀️

Because when we feel comfortable and confident in our own skin, it shows. Not because our skin has to look perfect, but because feeling good in ourselves has a way of translating outward.

This summer, listen to your skin. Give it what it needs and let the rest follow naturally.

06/08/2026

Hydrolats are often overlooked in skincare, yet they offer far more than just a pleasant scent. 🌿

Rich in naturally occurring bioactive compounds, these aromatic waters have shown antioxidant, antimicrobial and soothing properties, making them a promising ingredient for modern cosmetic formulations.

Curious to learn what hydrolats are, how they're produced, and why they're gaining scientific attention? Read our latest article on the CosmEthically ACTIVE website through the link in our bio.

04/08/2026

🏖 Skin, sun & vegetable oils – NO, THANK YOU! This may sound harsh, but it's worth reading further if keywords such as unsaturated fatty acids, free radicals and photoaging are not your cup of tea.

Popular articles and forums are full of discussions about plant oils used as sunscreens. They are supposedly natural and have excellent SPF's, and are thus a safe and effective alternative to synthetic UV filters.

It is not as simple as that, unfortunately. It’s even harmful for your skin.

🧪 The never-ending story escalated in 2000 with raspberry seed oil, which was examined in detail in a research article by Oomah et al., Characteristics of raspberry seed oil (Food Chem, 2000). I think it was an interesting study with many results of good practical value. In my opinion, however, they used an unfortunate method that was misinterpreted.

I’ll show you in two steps how raspberry oil became the (bad) messenger for natural sun protection.

1️⃣ In the study, the oil was exposed to an in vitro test and directly compared with a reference product without emphasising that in vitro data cannot be simply transferred to a real sun protection factor (SPF), which is calculated after the application of a sunscreen to the skin.

2️⃣ Search for “raspberry oil SPF 28–50” and you’ll find an endless amount of advice on why and how to use raspberry oil as a sunscreen.

So, what is the issue with the skin, sun & plant oils? Plant oils, especially those containing polyunsaturated fatty acids such as linoleic (raspberry, poppy, safflower oils) or linolenic acid (linseed, chia, evening primrose oils), are very prone to oxidation. Oxidation in turn is the result of free radical reactions that occur in the presence of oxygen and ultraviolet radiation, and both factors are in abundance when you’re exposing your skin to sun rays.

We can all agree that free radicals are not the skin’s best friends as they accelerate (photo)aging.

❣ So, don’t waste vegetable oils for sun protection. You can, however, look for their benefits in after-sun skin care.

If you'd like to learn more about plant oils and their role in cosmetic formulations, the Modern Cosmetics book is a great place to start.

28/07/2026

Would you trust a product just because an influencer recommends it?

We wouldn't.

Not because influencers are always wrong.

Many create thoughtful, evidence-based content and genuinely help people make better skincare decisions.

But at the end of the day, every recommendation is still someone's opinion.

And we're all human.

Sometimes we trust someone because they've helped us before.
Sometimes because they seem authentic.
Sometimes simply because we like them.

That's why independent evaluation matters.

A cosmetic product shouldn't earn trust because of who talks about it—it should earn trust because its claims, formulation, and performance can be objectively assessed.

That's exactly what the CosmEthically ACTIVE certificate was created for.

Independent cosmetic scientists evaluate the formulation, including whether active ingredients are present in cosmetically effective concentrations, whether the product is physiologically compatible with the skin, and whether its claims are supported by the formulation itself.

Recommendations can inspire us.

Science helps us verify them.

23/07/2026

Before buying your next skincare product, ask yourself one question:

Do you know what you're putting on your skin?

Beautiful packaging and marketing claims can only tell you so much. The real story is hidden in the ingredient list.

Understanding what ingredients do, where they come from, how they work, and when they're actually effective can completely change the way you choose skincare.

That's exactly why we wrote Modern Cosmetics: Ingredients of Natural Origin – A Scientific View.

📖 Inside you'll find:
• 500 ingredients of natural origin
• 290+ scientific monographs
• Evidence-based information backed by scientific literature
• A resource for formulators, students, professionals, brands, and skincare enthusiasts alike

Whether you're developing cosmetics or simply want to make more informed skincare decisions, knowledge is one of the most valuable ingredients.

21/07/2026

🌊 Does swimming in the sea affect your skin microbiota?

Yes, it does.

I read with interest one of the first studies investigating this question. It showed that swimming in the ocean temporarily changes the composition of our skin microbiota (aka microbiome). Some of our resident bacteria decrease in abundance, while marine microorganisms are transferred to the skin.

😉 Was your first thought the same?
❓ Should this stop us from enjoying the sea?

❣ Not at all.

The study didn't show that these changes are harmful.
In fact, the researchers observed that the skin microbiota gradually returned to its original composition over time.

This is a good reminder that our microbiome is dynamic: it constantly responds to the environment around us.

🙃 In science, we sometimes measure changes so precisely that it's tempting to assume every change is either “good” or “bad.” But biology is rarely that simple, right?

Swimming in the sea isn't just about your skin microbiota. It's about movement, relaxation, spending time outdoors, reducing stress, making memories… and simply feeling happy. Those benefits are also part of health, even if they can't all be captured by sequencing bacterial DNA.

To summarize, for me, this study has a simple takeaway:

Not every measurable change is a negative one. Sometimes science helps us understand nature, rather than fear it.

Source:
📚 Nielsen MC, Jiang SC. Alterations of the human skin microbiome after ocean water exposure. Marine Pollution Bulletin (2019).

16/07/2026

🌰 Horse chestnut has been used for centuries in traditional medicine and is increasingly finding its place in cosmetic formulations.

But one important question is often overlooked:

Does a traditional horse chestnut oil actually contain the ingredient responsible for many of its well-known cosmetic benefits?

In this post, we take a closer look at:

- what aescin is and why it is considered the main active compound in horse chestnut
- why traditional oil macerates are unlikely to contain significant amounts of aescin
- the cosmetic benefits associated with aescin
- key formulation considerations for cosmetic products

Understanding an ingredient goes beyond knowing its source, it also means understanding how it is extracted, formulated, and incorporated into a product.

Have you ever used or formulated with horse chestnut?

📖 For a deeper dive into the science, extraction methods, formulation, and cosmetic applications of aescin, explore the full article "Aescin: A Valuable Botanical Ingredient" in the latest CosmEthically ACTIVE Journal.

Link in our bio!

11/07/2026

Horse chestnut extract is best known for supporting circulation, but what about its role in skin care? 🌰

In our latest article, we explore aescin — a mixture of triterpenoid saponins with anti-inflammatory and anti-oedema properties — and discuss its safety, cosmetic benefits, and application potential.

While aescin cannot treat venous disease, it may help improve the appearance of puffiness, reduce the feeling of heavy legs, and support overall skin comfort.

📖 Read more in the CosmEthically ACTIVE Journal!

゚

27/06/2026

🌿 Shea butter (INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter) is one of the most widely used natural emollients in skincare and for good reason!

Rich in oleic and stearic acids, it helps improve skin hydration, supports the skin barrier, and leaves the skin feeling soft and nourished. Its naturally high oleic acid content also gives it a softer consistency than most vegetable butters, making it a versatile ingredient in cosmetic formulations.

But working with shea butter isn't always straight forward. Because it contains several triglycerides with different melting and crystallization behaviors, improper heating or cooling can lead to the formation of grainy crystals. This is why processing conditions are just as important as ingredient selection when developing stable, elegant formulations.

Have you ever formulated with shea butter—or is it one of your favorite skincare ingredients?

Let us know below! 👇✨

24/06/2026

🌿 Arbutin has become one of the most widely used ingredients for addressing hyperpigmentation and promoting a more even skin tone.

But what makes it so effective?

In this post, we take a closer look at:
- why arbutin is popular in skincare
- how it helps reduce melanin production
- how it compares to hydroquinone
- key formulation considerations

Understanding an ingredient goes beyond knowing what it does—it also means understanding how it works, how it should be formulated, and where its limitations lie.

Have you ever formulated with arbutin or used it in your skincare routine?

📖 For a deeper dive into the science, formulation, and safety of arbutin, explore the full article Arbutin: A Valuable Botanical Ingredient in the latest CosmEthically ACTIVE Journal.

Link in our bio!

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